The Fascinating Story of Beaufort's Atlantic Hotel 1851-1879

For 28 years, until the violent hurricane of 1879, the Atlantic Hotel or Atlantic House, was a significant part of the Beaufort waterfront. Gray’s 1880 New Map of Beaufort, shows the "Atlantic Hotel Lot" on the waterfront between Pollock and Marsh Streets. Today that block includes the Beaufort Post Office along with the Duncan, Jones and Wheatley Houses.

In her 1991 book The Atlantic Hotel, Virginia Pou Doughton compiled information from various sources including the memories of her grandmother—Mrs. Floyd S. Davis. Doughton described the hotel from its beginning to its unfortunate demise. This account below paraphrases her text and includes specific quotes. The text also includes descriptions by Amy Muse in her 1941 The Story of the Methodists in the Port of Beaufort.

In 1857 the Atlantic & North Carolina Railroad extended service to Morehead City. Captain Josiah Pender, born into a wealthy family in Edgecombe County, was one of the people who recognized what the train could mean to the coast. In 1859,*** he built the Atlantic Hotel on the Beaufort waterfront. According to Doughton, “the structure was three stories high, with triple porches and numerous windows to catch the breeze. It was a light framework covered with squares of planking to resemble stucco and was supported on pilings out over the water. The original cost was $4,000 and many said it was too splendidly fitted up to bring in profit. The Goldsboro Messenger said that it was the largest coastal resort hotel in North Carolina.”

The hotel quickly became a popular destination and its reputation attracted guests from all over North Carolina, as well as other states. However, in its third season, in 1861, there was a turn of events—the start of the Civil War.

As the events of the Civil War began to unfold and escalate, Josiah Pender decided he could not take the chance Fort Macon might be taken by Federal troops before the state could seize it. So, without notifying the Governor, Pender decided he would seize Fort Macon himself. He formed and led the Beaufort Harbor Guards to take over the fort. On April 14, 1861, Ordnance Sergeant William Alexander and his wife, alone at the fort, surrendered to Pender and his men. Shortly afterward Governor John W. Ellis ordered four of North Carolina's regular military units to proceed immediately to Fort Macon. Pender was relieved of duty. According to Fort Macon history, Pender formally volunteered to join the State Troops. He was commissioned on May 16 as Captain of Company G, Tenth North Carolina State Troops. 

Fort history goes on to say that is wasn’t long before Pender began to test the limits of military authority. When his wife, Maria [Martha Louise Williams], was seriously ill in Beaufort, his request for leave was denied, he decided to go home anyway. At a Court Martial in Morehead City, November, 1861, Captain Josiah S. Pender was convicted of being absent without leave and of making false statements to the Fort's commandant, Colonel Moses J. White. Captain Pender was dismissed from the Confederate Army. This finally marked the end of Josiah Pender's bizarre military career.

He brought most of his nine children home to Tarboro for relatives to look after them. He became reacquainted with a cousin, Laura Melvina Pender. Laura was
the daughter of Louis Pender, a cousin of Josiah. Perhaps he needed a wife to help care for the children and perhaps he fell in love with the young Laura.

The couple married on Sept. 23, 1862, and Josiah took Laura to Bermuda where he was part of a blockade running operation, smuggling goods into the port of Wilmington for the Confederate cause. While in Bermuda, they moved in high social circles and traveled with the Colonial Secretary Miles Keon and the Archbishop Thomas Connolly. On one occasion they sailed to Halifax, Nova Scotia, according to letters Laura sent home.

Laura became pregnant and wanted to return home to Tarboro to have her baby at home in Tarboro. Josiah had to go to England to get more goods. He put Laura on another ship with orders to the captain to take the ship into Wilmington. Various versions of her story have been passed down through family lore and even published in United Daughters of the Confederacy articles. 
When the ship got close to the Carolina coast, the Union ships tried to capture it. The captain was ready to surrender until Mrs. Pender persuaded him, some say with a pistol, to escape the blockade. 

The ship arrived safely in Wilmington, and Laura took the train home to Tarboro. Two weeks later on Oct. 19, 1863, she delivered her son Josiah Keon Pender, named after his father and for Miles Keon of Bermuda.

In 1864 Pender, still at sea, contracted Yellow Fever but somehow managed to return to Beaufort, where he died on October 25, never making it home to see his son. He was 45 years old. Josiah Pender, the man who loved to play soldier but couldn't stand to take orders, is buried by his first wife in Beaufort's Old Burying Ground.

When the hotel was taken over by the Federal troops, according to Doughton, the War Department requested seven Sisters of Mercy chosen from St. Catherine’s Convent in New York. They were ordered to proceed to Beaufort and were accompanied by physician Dr. John Upham. At the time of their arrival there were many sick and wounded soldiers in the hotel. “The conditions were deplorable; blood and filth covered the whole structure.” The Sisters were soon put in charge, getting rid of the barefoot overseer whose “hair was matted and his scraggly beard stained with tobacco juice….constantly sitting in a wheelbarrow near the door…with a huge bunch of keys dangling from his belt.” The Sisters “performed miracles in cleaning up this filthy, foul-smelling, vermin-ridden building into the clean and sanitary Hammond Hospital. The hospital closed in the fall of 1862.

Heirs of Josiah Pender, encouraged by summer visitors, renovated what appeared as a “giant haunted house”, in desperate need of repair—curtains flapping through the many broken windows. The patrons of the Atlantic Hotel were anxious to get back to Beaufort and resume the festivities of the pre War days.

The Atlantic Hotel reopened in June 1866, according to Doughton, “and almost immediately recaptured its former reputation of being the social and political headquarters of North Carolina during the summer season. The Pender heirs operated the hotel for a number of years under the name of Pender and Page, but later leased the management to different innkeepers.
 
George Taylor of Beaufort was the resident manager in 1872. In 1874 Robert D. Graham of Charlotte purchased the hotel and George Charlotte, the resident manager, was given strict orders to admit “only guests of the highest quality….. Excursion trains were arranged from Charlotte to Morehead City, where sailboats were boarded for the last leg of the trip to Beaufort....The sail over to Beaufort was the highlight of the trip and a wonderful relief from the hot cinders of the rail ride....Salt air was breathed deeply as it was supposed to relieve any type of illness, mental or physical……The hotel stayed full…Capt. R.D. Graham refused an offer of $20,000. He had paid $5000 in 1874…….before long excursion trains came from Baltimore, Richmond and out west to enjoy the delights of Beaufort.”

Amy Muse quoted an advertisement in The Journal: “Rooms at ‘$2.00 per diem’ with ‘bathing in ocean or surf, in the sound, or in bathing houses immediately contiguous to the hotel.’ Elsewhere the editor enlarges on the grandeur of the Atlantic House with its one hundred rooms: ‘Probably no hotel short of our large cities can make such a display of splendid silverware for dinner service. We noticed among other things: splendid magic wine stands; magic casters; egg cups; cups lined with gold, very beautiful; egg spoons; pickle stands; fruit baskets’ and so on.”

Doughton goes on to write that “entertainment at the Atlantic Hotel included “fast-sailing boats available for trolling or just plain sailing. The bar provided the best wines, cigars and liquor for the men……a billiard room and ten-pin alley….there were amusements for children, croquet on the lawn and every night there was a dance with a well-known string band…Every summer there was a pony penning on Shackleford Banks and for some this was the highlight of the season….Hotel guests also loved taking a boat to Shackleford Banks to talk to the whaling crews who harpooned the large mammals….tourists were spellbound when they heard firsthand accounts from actual whalers.”

The 1879 season opened with Major Benjamin Perry as manager. The hotel had been refurbished and every room freshly painted—expecting a summer. North Carolina’s new Governor T. J. Jarvis and Mrs. Jarvis were guests for the month of August. The North Carolina Press Association had a convention planned at the hotel for August 20-23. Major Perry prepared to entertain 1000 guests at the Grand Dress Ball to honor the Press Association on the 21st. Guests from many parts of the country were expected for a five-week visit.

Governor Jarvis was told there was a major storm in the Caribbean and that the hotel could be in danger. But he and Major Perry dismissed the possibility since Beaufort had not had a bad storm in over 20 years. Besides, events had been planned……

“Local boatmen recognized the ominous signs on August 15, like the Man O’War bird, began moving their boats up the creek.” Rooming house on the waterfront moved their clientele to private homes on Ann Street.

On August 17, 1879, the wind shifted…….“a Coastguardman from Fort Macon came to give warning of the approaching deadly storm, but Major Perry became adamant and shouted that the U.S. government wouldn’t tell him how to run the Atlantic Hotel.” But the vacationers at the hotel remained. Mr. Perry convinced them “that there was nothing to worry about”….they went to bed that night “without a care in the world.”

At 3 AM an alarm was sounded by a local man, Henry Congleton—for everyone to evacuate the building. “There was no time to gather belongings and most people escaped with only their nightclothes.” Palmer Davis, a local black man, carried many children “through high water and falling debris…….Governor Jarvis later declared him the hero of the hour…”
Young men and boys saved themselves by jumping into the water from 2nd and 3rd story windows. “The Hester brothers from Morehead City were in Beaufort at the time and they helped many guest reach safety." David Hughes, from New Bern, died trying to save another, as did Henry Congleton of Beaufort. “It is assumed that both men were killed by falling debris and timbers. Their bodies were later found on Bird Shoal.”

The Beaufort waterfront was demolished and under eight feet of water. The guests, along with Governor and Mrs. Jarvis, lost all of their clothes and personal belongings. “The waterfront was strewn with lumber, trunks and goods; crowds of people, some of them barefooted, were trying to identify their belongings…….The good people of Beaufort went to their attics and found clothing for the 150 destitute refugees. Governor Jarvis was given a sailor suit that had been used in the War of 1812; his elegant wife seemed happy for a calico wrapper, the equivalent of today’s housecoat.”

On August 20 the few undamaged boats were used to transport the group to Morehead City and a special train was sent to carry them home. After a few weeks it was decided that a new Atlantic Hotel would be built in Morehead City.

100 years later the US Weather Bureau listed the storm of 1879 as being violent with winds estimated to have reached 125 mph. [Today's records: The Great Beaufort Hurricane, Category 3, with highest wind recorded at 128, highest estimated at 165.]

Virginia Pou Doughton's book, The Atlantic Hotel, can be purchased at The History Place in Morehead City, North Carolina.

***In an account on Josiah Solomon Pender, in the Dictionary of North Carolina Biography: Vol. 5, P-S, stated, “In 1856 he bought his favorite oceanfront hotel, the 'Atlantic House,' which had been erected in 1851..."

John Lawson - An Untimely Death

The Capture of John Lawson - North Carolina Archives and History
John Lawson - Explorer, naturalist and writer/illustrator of A New Voyage to Carolina began life in Scotland in 1674, but was schooled in England. He first traveled to Carolina in 1700, explored and recorded his extremely detailed impressions of Carolina - the land, the Indians, flora and wildlife. His writings are still appreciated today by historians, naturalists and readers like us. Lawson also participated in the founding of Bath in 1705 and New Bern in 1710.

Unfortunately, he met his fate much too early. Aware of the impending danger, he made out his last will and testament in 1708.

In September 1711 John Lawson and his associate Christoph Von Graffenried were captured by Tuscarora Indians while ascending the Neuse River. They held Von Graffenried prisoner but brutally tortured and killed Lawson - the one who had written almost admiringly about these Native Americans just a few years earlier.


The Death of John Lawson - Drawing likely by Christoph Von Graffenried

Von Graffenried wrote: ………"The day after the execution of Surveyor General Lawson the chief men of the village came to me with the report that they had it in mind to make war on North Carolina. Especially did they wish to surprise the people of Pamtego, Neuse, and Trent Rivers, and Core Sound. So that for good reasons they could not let me go until they were through with this expedition. What was I to do? I had to have patience, for none of my reasons helped. A hard thing about it was that I had to hear such sad news and yet could not help nor let these poor people know the least thing of it."

It was, thus, that tensions between Indians and settlers erupted into a bloody conflict known as the Tuscarora War - a turning point in not only North Carolina but American history.

Carteret County Coat of Arms

Original Carteret County Coat of Arms
  • The silver (Argent) diamonds (Lozengy) on the shield are representative of the Carteret Family, as the original Carteret Coat of Arms consisted of four silver diamonds on a red (Gules) field. 
  • The black (Sable) swords (Tridents) across (Saltire) the shield are three-pronged spears representative of Neptune. 
  • The monster (Yale) on the top has curved horns with a body like an antelope with a lion’s tail. 
  • The scallop (Escallop Or) is an ancient emblem of heraldry worn by Crusaders of old as a badge of honor. 
  • The black whale supporters are additives, perhaps due to much of Carteret County being on the ocean. The "supporters" come from the practice of Knight’s aides dressing in various animal costumes to attract challenges at tournaments.
NOTE: The above terms in italics are French because the Angevin kings ruled England as heraldry became established.

In 1976, Miss Emily Loftin and Mrs. Thelma Simpson prevailed upon the Carteret County Commissioners to initiate a request that the College of Arms, London, England, “derive such Armorial Ensigns as may be deemed suitable”. The request was officially made by John Kenneth Newsome, Chairman of the Carteret County Board of Commissions.

The Coat of Arms was unveiled in 1977 at the Driftwood Restaurant in Cedar Island. The original hangs in the Carteret County Board of Commissioners Room in the Courthouse in Beaufort, North Carolina.
 
A smaller copy, in oil, hangs in the Carteret County Museum of History in Morehead City, North Carolina.

(Researched and compiled by the late Charles O. Pitts Jr.)
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     On August 8, 1722, Carteret Precinct was carved from Craven Precinct. Beaufort was designated as the seat, a courthouse was erected and a jail was built a few years later.
    The new precinct was named Carteret in honor of John Carteret, grandson and heir of George Carteret, one of the eight Lord Proprietors of Carolina, appointed by King Charles II in 1668. Carteret became a county in 1739.

USS Monitor-The Beaufort Link


Although Swedish inventor John Ericsson submitted plans to Napoleon III in 1854 for an “impregnable battery” that included a revolving cupola, it wasn’t until 1861 that Ericsson’s plans for such an ironclad ship were accepted by the US Navy Department.

USS Monitor was launched from Continental Iron Works in Greenpoint, NY on January 30, 1862. In October, Monitor spent several weeks at the Washington Navy Yard where it was repainted and modified. Battle damages were repaired with iron patches – each scar was labeled according to its origin: “Merrimac”- “Minnesota”- “Ft. Darling” and “Merrimac’s Prow”.

Shortly afterwards, on December 24, 1862, orders were issued for Monitor to proceed to Beaufort, North Carolina. On December 31 she encountered a severe storm several miles off the coast of North Carolina. Efforts by the crew were in vain and the ship slowly sank – four officers and 16 crewmen lost their lives.

Discovered in 1973

In Beaufort, a monument honoring John G. Newton, the Duke University Marine Laboratory team leader involved in the 1973 discovery of the long-sunken Civil War Union ironclad Monitor, was dedicated March 9, 2002, the 140th anniversary of the historic vessel's battle with its rival Confederate ironclad Virginia (originally Merrimack before its capture and refitting).

Newton, who died in 1984 at the age of 52, led the group aboard the marine lab's former research vessel Eastward that discovered Monitor on Aug. 27, 1973, lying upside down in 230 feet of water about 16 miles off Cape Hatteras. That discovery was preceded by nearly a year of intensive historical research that narrowed the search to a 6-by-16 mile rectangle in what is known as the "Graveyard of the Atlantic" because of the frequency of shipwrecks.

"Before our first week was over, we had picked up 21 targets," Newton recalled in a January 1975 National Geographic article. The day the right target was found, he wrote, "the scientist on watch paid little heed to a slight echo" traced on the paper track of a sonar recorder. Fortunately, Newton added, Fred Kelly, the chief of Eastward's oceanographic party, passed by while wrapping up a bit of fishing from the ship's rail. 'Hey -- that looks like something,' Fred said, and suggested that Eastward reverse course to take a closer look."

It would take another five months of post-discovery study, plus a second site visit in April 1974, to unquestionably identify the wreck.
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Monitor was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in October 1974 as a resource of national significance. On January 30, 1975, Monitor became the first National Marine Sanctuary under Title III of the Marine Protection, Research and Protection Act of 1972.

Wool coat that sank with ironclad Monitor is nearly revived
The Union jacket is again recognizable despite 140 years submerged inside the Monitor’s turret, which was recovered in 2002. (Jonathon Gruenke / Newport News)

"Capt Jack" - An Early Entrepreneur

West end of Front Street. 
 
"Capt Jack - take you over and bring you back..."
 
John Winfield "Capt Jack" Willis (1875-1962) was the son of John Chapman Willis 1846-1910 (son of James Willis and Esther Piver) and Marinda Taylor 1842-1925 (daughter of William and Betsy Taylor of Craven County). 

"Capt Jack" and Daisy Elizabeth Whitehurst (1877-1953) were parents of Jack Miller Willis (1909-1977) and Robert Neal Willis (1917-2004). Neal and Ida Evelyn Jones had two daughters - Linda Willis Sadler and Judy Willis Peregoy. Jack Willis and Lydia Ann Noe were parents of Jack Willis, Jr., Joyce Willis Johnston, Michael Willis and Mae Willis Stevens. 

This Willis family can be traced to John Williston, born in Middlesex, Massachusetts before 1700 and died after 1780 in Williston, Carteret County. It is believed that John married Mary Martin in Carteret County about 1724; Mary was born in 1705, perhaps in Down, Ulster, Ireland. John Williston was a private in Col. Thomas Lovick's Carteret County Militia during the Spanish attack on Beaufort in 1747.

Thanks to documentation and stories collected by his family – the colorful history of "Capt Jack" lives on… 

According to Neal Willis’ book, Beaufort by the Sea-Memories of a Lifetime, John Winfield Willis was born on Mulberry Street and later moved to a house on Turner Street. He married Daisy Elizabeth Whitehurst in 1907 at Miss Emily Loftin’s house on Marsh Street.
 
Below are excerpts from Neal Willis’ book and newspaper interviews:

"He worked in the river fishing, oystering, clamming and for a time at the boat yard of Whitehurst & Rice…At one time he operated a steam-powered merry-go-round for a carnival...He would get up on many cold winter mornings before sunrise and then go out in the cold water in a pair of old leaky boots to pick up oysters barehanded. He had to row a boat five miles each way, then open the oysters and walk all over town trying to sell them for 25 cents per quart, often having to bring them home so we could eat them before they spoiled.

[In the 1920s] "Dad had a houseboat; really it was old sailing sharpie with an enclosure built on top. It was up on posts about six feet above the water at the foot of Moore Street and Front…There was a walkway from the breakwater to the front of the boat.

"He had a motor boat, with a cabin, named Capt Jack that was used to carry people to the Swimming Shoal and to Piver’s Island and for fishing parties. Since the Davis House and Manson House were just across the street, he got a lot of business from the tourists there.

"He had rowboats, fishing lines, bathing suits [ordered from Sears Roebuck] and crab scoops for rent. This was across from the Swimming Shoal where we had cleared the beach of shells and broken bottles. We charged 15 cents round trip…in rowboats…We [Dad, Jack and I] taught swimming and rowing.

"Later he moved everything to the west end of Front Street in a metal building owned by George Brooks, a local contractor, who had a speed boat Miss Beaufort housed in the building…After the building was destroyed in a storm, he built a wooden building at the same location. This too was destroyed in a hurricane...the Capt Jack was washed up on the shore. The rowboats were sold."

History tells us that Capt Jack was also looked to as a weather man as he either walked or rode a bicycle to and from his fishing camp. "He told us to look to the wind for weather signs. He could also look at the clouds and tell what kind of weather to expect for the next few days…He told me about the 1917 freeze and the influenza epidemic. The river across Gallants was frozen solid enough that cars could be driven across on the ice...He said he also witnessed the last hanging on Court House Square."

Neal Willis’ book goes on to tell us how his father’s birthday was always celebrated. "…Each year he had a watermelon cutting on the breakwater near his camp at the foot of Moore Street to celebrate. Tourists staying at the Davis House and Manson House were invited along with their children. Captain Kelly Gillikin, who operated a freight boat would pick up watermelons and bring them to Dad. Everyone had a great time."

"…When I was growing up, a lot of people went 'sheep heading,' especially Dad. It was nothing to catch a fish weighing 12 to 14 pounds. It was so big that you couldn’t scale it with a knife. Dad had what he called the ‘sheep head board’. It was a large board where he could drive a nail in the fish’s tail and scale it with a hoe. They were very good eating baked with onions and potatoes. The meat was white and very good. We used sand fiddlers for bait. They wouldn’t bite shrimp or fish. They ate barnacles and small crabs on the large posts and rocks. They were very strong and could bend a regular hook. Dad told Mr. Jones, the hardware manager, and he had the Pflueger Hook Company make a stronger hook. They named it the ‘Capt Jack Hook’."

Beaufort by the Sea - Memories of a Lifetime contains most of the above information, plus Neal Willis' memories of what it was like growing up in Beaufort. 
Photos provided by Linda Willis Sadler.

Atlantic Beach - The Early Days

Atlantic Beach, Beaufort.Morehead City, NC circa 1933
Just past the Beaufort Inlet, are the cresting ocean waves of the Atlantic Ocean. In the early days, through the Civil War, until the late 1880s, Bogue Banks was totally undeveloped and reachable only by boat. Jennie Coues, wife of Dr. Coues, stationed at Fort Macon after the Civil War, played with her daughter on the beach, and often galloped freely on horseback.

“Bogue Banks had its start with a fort [Fort Macon] on the eastern end and small fishing villages along the beach. From this small beginning came the beach resort of Atlantic Beach, which became a major tourist attraction.

"J.J. Royal and Winfield Chadwick built a small pavilion, one-story bathhouse and refreshment stand on Bogue Banks’ ocean beach in 1887. Boats for hire took people to the sound side of the beach, where they walked across the sand and dunes to reach the ocean for surf bathing. When the partners split their interests, Royal moved west to Money Island and built a two-story pavilion and bathhouse. Oxcarts carried supplies for the refreshment stand over the sand dunes. In 1916, Vaughn Bedsworth bought 100 acres including the Royal property and named it Atlantic View Beach.
Many improvements were made and a successful 100-room hotel was built.
Greetings From Atlantic Beach circa 1949
"Tourists used the beach for years before Atlantic Beach was promoted as a separate entity. In the summer sharpies rigged with white sails bound from the Atlantic Hotel were an ordinary sight as most carried tourists to the ocean beach. The fare was 15 cents to be taken to Money Beach for swimming. Money Beach, which had a small bathhouse, was thought to hide pirate treasure in its dunes. Even after Atlantic Beach was developed for tourism in 1928, most swimmers continued going to Money Beach to avoid paying the $1 swimming fee.

"The building of the toll bridge by the Atlantic Beach Company in 1928 helped to create the resort of Atlantic Beach. The wood-planked turnstile bridge was built at 28th Street. It had a tollbooth with a pagoda-style roof. Tolls were 25 cents per car plus 15 cents per passenger. The toll was dropped in 1936 when the state bought the bridge.

"To promote the beach, they also built a dining hall, bathhouses and the Pagoda. These were constructed in an Oriental style and had green roofs with bright red exposed corners. The Pagoda was a large building where dances were held. Featured were such well-known orchestras as Paul Whiteman and Tommy Dorsey.
Pagoda Ball Room, Atlantic Beach, Beaufort. Morehead City, NC
Ocean King Hotel circa early 1950s
"Alfred Braswell Cooper is credited with having a vision for developing what many viewed as an island desert into the resort Atlantic Beach became. A few months after buying Atlantic Beach, A.B. Cooper built the three-story 70 room Ocean King Hotel (above)-opened for the 1946 season. The hotel was badly damaged by Hurricane Hazel in 1955 and reopened in 1956, only to be destroyed by fire. Cooper also built the Idle Hour Amusement Center. The Idle Hour, on the right leg of the amusement circle, had a 4-lane bowling alley, which grew to 24 lanes, juke box music and refreshments. During World War II, servicemen stationed at Fort Macon frequented the center…”
Have a Swim With Us - Greetings From Atlantic Beach, Morehead City, N.C.
The above text and postcards were taken from Carteret County - Postcard History Series, by local residents Linda Sadler and her son Kevin Jenkins. It is a collection of old postcards with descriptive histories under each card - of Beaufort, Morehead City, Atlantic Beach and Fort Macon. The images in the book are in black and white.

On the Front Cover: The Morehead City Boating Club was founded in 1934, sponsoring such races as the Shanghai Trophy, the Gib Arthur Memorial Trophy and the D.G. Bell Memorial Trophy. The flag, called Old Mullet, designed by D.G. Bell, distinguished the boats. The club also sponsored the Junior Boat Club. These clubs were active until World War II put a stop to pleasure boating.
Books can be ordered from Arcadia Publishing and Amazon.com
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Below is a 1929 poster advertising Atlantic Beach
(not included in the book)
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